Stylites

Homie Trousers, HK and BJ

A pivotal moment in recent men’s fashion received ample expression at the Lane Crawford party. Not only are the dropped-crotch trousers a key look for men in winter 2007, they are also one of the memorable pieces from Hedi Slimane’s last collection for Dior Homme, and consequently a collector’s item. Women, especially Japanese, have enjoyed this less constricting style for several years and a few menswear designers have attempted these trousers lately, but Hedi Slimane succeeded in making them look edgy and rockstar-like, as he does with most pieces. They stand in marked contrast with the extreme slimness for which his collections are known.
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They’re not Jodhpurs, intended for riding with a flare at the thighs and a standard rise, and they’re definitely not harem pants. The inspiration appears to be “dhoti” pants from India, which are normally paired with the “kurta” – a long pajama-like shirt. It is perhaps in being paired with other more stock Dior Homme pieces like the slim black tie and small-collared shirt that these trousers really shine. Clothed head to toe in Dior Homme, Marcus is a VM Manager for Lane Crawford. His comment on the night: “With a Lane Crawford better than the ones in Hong Kong, Beijing will quickly supplant Shanghai as the mainland’s fashion capital.

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I asked Richard: “Where is the jacket from?” “Dior Homie.” (his pronunciation) “The tie?” “Dior Homie.” The pants? “Dior Homie.” Beijing’s new Dior Homme carried just four of the 100% wool dhoti-styled trousers, which I now call “homie trousers”, at RMB 6,200 (USD 840) a pair. Richard nabbed one and urbanized the slightly rough look admirably – the glass of Moët helped too. He carries the homie trousers with somewhat more aplomb than the Hong Kong Homie, in my opinion, due to his commanding attitude. I would argue that Richard’s healthy appearance goes better with the trousers than that of the waif-like model wearing them on the runway:

All told, while the silhouette is refreshing, one can’t deny that it is a risky look. Without buying the entire Dior Homme ensemble and, maybe, being Chinese and thus quite removed from American pop culture, a certain comparison might be made.

The Homie pants should not be rejected for eternity just because of that unfortunate episode. I encountered Richard again recently and he showed his usual appreciation of the drama and fun that I believe should always be a part of fashion.

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Anyone who carries a glass of champagne for every picture is fine by me. I still haven’t found out what Richard does or believes. I would like to constantly have a glass of champagne in hand, and have a little man for refilling follow me everywhere I go. A second man would push along a Louis Vuitton wardrobe filled with bottles.  That is the only LV piece I would ever buy, and it necessitates the hiring of a man whose sole purpose in life is pushing it.  There’s a thought for the new wealthy of China.

Posted on December 11th, 2007

10 Responses

  1. LabelKing says:

    Just for that comment, I think the Shanghai-nese will put up a fight.

  2. stylites says:

    He was trying to be positive and they just closed their franchised store in Shanghai. It’s hard to imagine the average Beijinger appearing glamorous and international. Anyway, I think Beijingers themselves would probably prefer the title of “style capital” and leave “fashion capital” to the Shanghaiese. We know which of the two term connotes truly worthwhile and everlasting values. Hahaha.

  3. YFYF says:

    I cannot think of a worse fate than being henpecked to death by a bunch of irascible Shanghainese women. Lousy heels.

  4. boyce says:

    Carrying a glass of Champagne is great, but holding it by the bowl is heating that up. Unless you’re chugging them, grab it by the stem – yeah, I’m being picky, but that’s what happens when I have more than a dozen cups of coffee in one day.

  5. stylites says:

    That’s a good point. He’s holding it by the bowl in both pictures – I didn’t even notice. Though it may be more of a prop, he still needs to get that right to maximize the effect. Perhaps if I encounter him at another party, I can gently make this recommendation.

  6. stylites says:

    I think I have been henpecked to death by Shanghaiese colleagues and clients.

  7. YFYF says:

    You need to dispense some street justice. That’ll learn ‘em.

  8. Julie says:

    go Dior Homme!

  9. dominique says:

    great post on the homie pants.
    thoroughly enjoyed it. richard rocks whether he is holding his champagne flute hammer style or not.

  10. dominique says:

    great post on the homie pants. look out shanghai…mwouahaha
    thoroughly enjoyed it. richard rocks whether he is holding his champagne flute hammer style or not.

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