Vogue Editor Angelica wears a dress designed by Liu Lu in Milan.
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Liu Wen in Online Exclusive Shoot
Previewing new collections before they reach fashion magazines, Anothermag.com did an exclusive shoot with Chinese supermodel Liu Wen wearing highlights from Spring/Summer 2011 YSL, Chanel, CdG, Lanvin, etc.
In China, Art Leads Luxury艺术引领奢侈
Text: (from LifeStyle Magazine February 2011 issue) Nels Frye, Renee Liu, Sylvia Song, Juli Zha, Eva Liu, and Jeffrey Ying
Photos: Stock
How China jumps from manufacturer to innovator preoccupies everyone from provincial officials to hipsters stalking 798. In our field, many ask when mainland China will give birth to its own luxury brands with buyers in Paris, New York, and Tokyo. There are some promising local players, but the flow in luxury fashion, cars, timepieces, and wines remains overwhelmingly from West to East.
The exception is one area in which China does have serious brands: contemporary art. Xu Bing, Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun and others fetch top prices at auction and gain critical acclaim to match. The entire scene has long been viewed as one of the most creatively vibrant in the world.
Foreign luxury brands are astutely seizing upon this area in which China is a creative superpower hoping to gain global buzz, legitimacy in the eyes of Chinese buyers, and the cultural legitimacy that comes from association with art.
Collaborations between luxury brands and artists have occurred at least since Fauvist Raoul Dufy created fabrics for Paris designer Paul Poirot in 1909. The most artist-loving fashion designer was probably Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian counterpart to Coco Chanel, who commissioned Alberto Giacometti, Jean Cocteau and, most famously, Salvatore Dali to design dresses and other pieces for her collections. More recently, Louis Vuitton invited Takashi Murakami to design those playful, now iconic, bags and other accessories.
In China, the first high-glamour union between art and fashion was shown at the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art in Beijing in 2008. Dior invited 22 Chinese artists to reinterpret the brand’s heritage with fruits including a Lady Dior bag-inspired giant bag sculpture using fluorescent light tubes by Li Songsong and a portrait of John Galliano by Zhang Dali.
The last two years have witnessed a proliferation of artists designing limited-edition series of company’s products, creating special packaging and redesigning shops for major foreign luxury brands. With such unions as Yue Minjun x Swatch and Ai Weiwei x Comme des Garçons, the effect for brands seems to be an association with big names. Other projects like Lu Hao x Ferrari, Lacoste x Li Xiaofeng, and Absolut x Gao Yu seem connect the brands to Chinese tradition. The films by Yang Fudong for Prada, used in magazine advertisements throughout the world, inject a contemporary Chinese, though clearly 1930s Shanghai-tinged, element into the language of international glamour.
Though the purpose may be just as commercial, these collaborations with artists are more intellectually and spiritually satisfying than the unions with luxury’s usual partner, celebrities, long ignored by all thinking people. The next step might be for Chinese brands to pair up with native or foreign artists.
Absolut x Gao Yu
In a project that represents the adaptability and innovativeness of the Monkey King, the current generation of young Chinese, and the Swedish vodka brand, pop artist Gao Yu designed bottle art for Absolut’s latest limited edition, Absolut 72 Bian. Released in China this August, the 350,000 bottles of Absolut 72 Bian contain the same clear spirit as the standard blue label but the artwork is based on Sun Wukong, known to Westerners as the Monkey King, who transforms 72 times in the course of 16th Century novel Journey to the West. The clever and daring monkey, likely the most recognizable figure from Chinese folk culture for people now in their 20s and 30s, represents “innovation through change” according to Gao Yu. Other spirit brands like Chivas Regal and Cointreau have also created youth-focused limited editions just for Asia, but none has so well captured notions of change, innovation, and adaptability that are most relevant to youth in China today.
Pop artist Gao Yu, born in 1981, likes his Absolut straight or in a martini with olives. Born in Guizhou, Gao Yu’s work has been influence by modern pop culture and cartoons but also Chinese traditions and fairy tales. Gao Yu himself, when asked what he most enjoys in life, answered that it was “drinking with my friends. And I mean it.”
Ferragamo x Xue Song
For Salvatore Ferragamo, the venerable Italian leather brand, Xue Song has designed a special edition collection consisting of two day bags, small leathers and a t-shirt. They will all feature Xue Song’s painting of tigers symbolizing luck and bravery.
Xue Song is an artist known for incorporating traditional Chinese ele- ments such as calligraphy and ink paintings in modern abstract ways. With a technical background rooted in painting, Xue Song may be most known for his Political Pop collages.
Ferarri x Lu Hao
Certainly it should not be surprising when Ferrari asked him to work on a model 599 GTB Fiorano for a special China edition. Finished in a mock crackle glaze paint inspired by Song Dynasty porcelain, the Ferrari has also been customized in the interior where such things like the igni- tion button have been replaced with a carved jade one. The car was auctioned off at a charity dinner in Beijing.
Lu Hao is known for being elaborate. His art works include a number of complex installations and large-scale items that deal with issues of scale, form and the relationships of a rapidly evolving China.
Lacoste x Li Xiaofeng
Perhaps the most attention-grabbing and potentially historically significant of the works created by Chinese artists for foreign brands, the two Porcelain Polo are the most valuable Lacoste polos made to date. Amidst the countless details on the porcelain polo, central are the pheonixs and crocodiles that in this case symbolize the meeting between Chinese tradition and a Western corporation, according to the artist. In addition to the art pieces, Li Xiaofeng cooperated with Lacoste on designing a limited edition of cotton polos for the 2011 Holiday Series of the brand. These use the pattern of cracked porcelain and a motif of smiling, chubby, babies and flowers that represent youthful exuberance.
Undeniably fresh but recognizably archeological, the “fashion items” made by Hubei-born, Beijing-based, artist Li Xiaofeng stylishly celebrate Chinese tradition and have captured the imaginations in Beijing and beyond. The garments are formed with porcelain pot shards from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties that are sewn together over a leather canvas.
Louis Vuitton x Zhou Tiehai
In 2007, the third Louis Vuitton exclusive agency opened in the financial shopping center in Beijing, featured by the design window developed by Zhou. This was the first cooperation between LV and Chinese artist. Among the monogram pattern in the gold background of the design window, there were his two paintings named My Picture Must Use the Louis Vuitton Bag and And Then Again, Here Came Mr. Gurierec To China. More than 10 years ago, Chinese artist didn’t get too much attention from western countries, attracted by the long brand history of LV, Zhou came up with the idea to paint the two paintings, conveying the feeling of appreciation between art and luxury. Many years later, Chinese artists are under the spotlight, even popular in the market. Undoubtedly, this collaboration is a win-win strategy. As Zhou said:†Luxury products are also arts, why not?â€
Zhou Tiehai is one of China’s leading conceptual artists, lives and works in Shanghai. Zhou has exhibited internationally at acclaimed institutions such as The Whitney Museum of American Art, Deichtorhallen, Kunsthal, Shanghai Art Museum,etc.
Mouton Rothchild x Xu Lei
Showcasing just how important the Chinese wine market is when it comes to Bordeaux, Chateau Mouton Rothschild has chosen Chinese painter Xu Lei as the artist to create the wine label for the 2008 vintage. His label is an ink drawing with the Mouton symbol, a ram standing between two halves of the moon covered with vines and grapes. The label represents wine as a bridge between two hemispheres. The choice of a Chinese artist has driven up the price of the 2008 vintage. Decanter reports that prices went up 20% overnight on the back of the announcement, and the wine is currently trading at around £10,000 per case. The bottle also bears the Chinese symbol for the figure eight, a symbol that is considered to be auspicious.
The Mouton Rothschild Artists label has featured a variety of artists such as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol, Lucien Freud and Prince Charles. Check out some examples in the gallery below.
Xu is artistic director of Today Art Museum in Beijing.
Prada x Yang Fudong
Therefore, it is perfectly appropriate that Prada has collaborated with Yang Fudong on their recent advertising campaign in the form of a short film. Shot in a fake Shanghai of the 1920s, the film combines the glossiness of a high-fashion spread with the surrealism of an arthouse film: models mill about in an atmospheric environment while wearing the latest from the Prada spring collection.
Known as one of the leading Chi- nese filmmakers in the independent scene, Yang Fudong–like any good indie director–is particularly fond of wistful black and white imagery and lots of philosophical moodiness.
Swatch x Yue Minjun
The connection of art and Swatch is nothing new and Swatch has collaborated with Yue Minjun to have some of his paint- ings printed on the dials of their iconic plastic watches.
Yue Minjun may just be the most fa- mous contemporary Chinese artist now. When his painting, “Execution” sold at Sotheby’s in 2007 for 5.9 million USD, he became the most expensive contemporary Chinese painter to sell at auction up till that date. With his signature style of depicting himself laughing hysterically, Yue Minjun is on the leading edge of the new Chinese art.
Upon seeing Zhang Qikai’s most recent Panda series of paintings, Titoni’s CEO Daniel Schluep was immediately convinced that there should be a collaboration with Titoni for a limited edition watch. Featuring one of Zhang Qikai’s pandas on the dial, the Titoni watch is the first in a series of Artist edition watches designed in collaboration with various international artists. Along with showcasing artistic talent, this particular collaboration also seeks to symbolize the growing friendship between Switzerland and China. Released in a limited edition of 250, the Titoni Zhang Qikai edition is also an officially certified chronometer (COSC).
As one of the leading contemporary Chinese artists, Zhang Qikai has exhibited internationally including in the United Kingdom, Germany and Japan. His paintings tend to deal with the passage of time, a notion that is not unfamiliar territory for Swiss watchmakers like Titoni.
Text: (from LifeStyle Magazine February 2011 issue) Nels Frye, Renee Liu, Sylvia Song, Juli Zha, Eva Liu, and Jeffrey Ying
Photos: Stock
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这两年,越æ¥è¶Šå¤šçš„艺术家为奢侈å“å“牌设计é™é‡ç³»åˆ—ã€åŒ…装,或是店铺。比如岳æ•å›å’ŒSwatchã€è‰¾æœªæœªå’ŒComme des Garçons之间的åˆä½œï¼Œå“ç‰Œå› æ¤è€Œæ›´ä¸ºçŸ¥å;其它则有å¢æ˜Šå’Œæ³•æ‹‰åˆ©ã€æŽæ™“å³°å’ŒLacosteã€é«˜ç‘€å’ŒAbsolut,å“牌的产å“ä¹Ÿå› æ¤æ›´å…·ä¸å›½ç‰¹è‰²ã€‚而æ¨ç¦ä¸œä¸ºPradaæ‹æ‘„的广告大片,则将旧上海的感觉æ‰å…¥å…¶ä¸ã€‚
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法拉利 x å¢æ˜Š
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Lacoste x æŽæ™“å³°
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LV x 周é“æµ·
2007年,北京金èžè¡—LV新店开幕,店ä¸çš„艺术橱窗引人注目。这是LVå’Œä¸å›½è‰ºæœ¯å®¶çš„首次åˆä½œï¼šé‡‘色的布景上,点缀ç€LVç»å…¸çš„MONOGRAM花纹图案,布景的ä¸é—´åˆ™æŒ‚放ç€å‘¨é“海《我的作å“è¦ç”¨è·¯æ˜“å¨ç™»çš„包æ¥è£…》和《ä¸å›½åˆæ¥äº†ä¸ªé¡¾ç£Šå…‹ã€‹ç”»ä½œã€‚æ¤æ¬¡åˆä½œç¼˜èµ·äºŽåå‡ å¹´å‰ï¼Œä¸å›½è‰ºæœ¯å®¶æœªè¢«è¥¿æ–¹å›½å®¶æ‰€è®¤è¯†çš„年代,周é“海先生便被LVçš„æ‚ ä¹…å“牌历å²æ‰€å¸å¼•ï¼Œåˆ›ä½œäº†è¿™ä¸¤å¹…画作。时隔多年,ä¸å›½è‰ºæœ¯å®¶å¤‡å—关注,而周é“æµ·å’ŒLVçš„æ¤æ¬¡æºæ‰‹ï¼Œæ— 疑是åŒèµ¢ä¹‹ä¸¾ã€‚按照周é“海本人所言:“奢侈å“也是艺术å“,为什么ä¸åˆä½œï¼Ÿâ€
毕业于上海大å¦ç¾Žæœ¯å¦é™¢ï¼ŒçŽ°å±…上海。被人称作“ä¸å›½å½“代最纯粹的观念艺术家â€ï¼Œæœ€æ—©ä»¥å讽ä¸å›½å½“代艺术市场å‘生机制的è’谬性为创作主题,曾å‚åŠ è¿‡å¨å°¼æ–¯åŒå¹´å±•ã€å¡å¡žå°”文献展ç‰ä¼—多é‡è¦å›½é™…艺术大展。
木æ¡â€¢ç½—斯柴尔德酒庄 x å¾ç´¯
法国五大å庄之一的木æ¡â€¢ç½—斯柴尔德酒庄(Chateau Mouton Rothschild),于2010年选定ä¸å›½è‰ºæœ¯å®¶å¾ç´¯ä½œä¸ºå°†è¦æŽ¨å‡ºçš„2008年份木æ¡é…’æ ‡äººé€‰ï¼Œè¿™æ˜¯ç»§æ¯•åŠ ç´¢ã€è¾¾åˆ©ã€ç±³ç½—ã€åº·å®šæ–¯åŸºã€å®‰è¿ªâ€¢æ²ƒéœå°”ã€åŸ¹æ ¹ã€å·´å°”è’‚æ–¯ç‰å¤§å¸ˆä¹‹åŽï¼Œåˆä¸€åˆ«å…·ä¸€æ ¼çš„é…’æ ‡åˆ›æ„。历ç»åŠå¹´çš„时间,è²åŠ›æ™®â€¢ç½—斯柴尔德女男爵从众多拥有国际影å“力的ä¸å›½å½“代艺术家ä¸ï¼Œé€‰æ‹©å¾ç´¯æˆä¸ºæœ€ä½³äººé€‰ã€‚é…’æ ‡å›¾æ¡ˆçš„ä¸»è¦éƒ¨åˆ†ç”±æœ¨æ¡é…’庄的象å¾ï¼Œä¸€åªç™½ç¾Šæ‰€æž„æˆï¼Œä¸¤ä¾§æ˜¯æœˆäº®çš„东西两个åŠçƒï¼Œå¹¶ä¸”在上é¢ç”»æœ‰è‘¡è„ä¸²ã€‚å…³äºŽè¿™å¹…é…’æ ‡çš„å¯“æ„,主è¦æ˜¯â€œä¸ºäº†çªå‡ºæˆ‘们的美酒是è”系人类与其文明的桥æ¢ï¼ŒåŒæ—¶ä¹Ÿæ˜¯ä¸œåŠçƒä¸Žè¥¿åŠçƒä¹‹é—´è”系的纽带。â€
1963年生于江è‹å—通,在å—京艺术å¦é™¢å¦ä¹ 毛笔画,现任北京当代艺术åšç‰©é¦†çš„艺术总监。作å“é—»åä¸å¤–,在美国åŠæ¬§æ´²éƒ½æ›¾æœ‰è¿‡å±•å‡ºã€‚å…¶é£Žæ ¼æŠŠé›„å£®ä¸Žç§€ç¾Žï¼Œè™šæ— ä¸Žå†…åœ¨ï¼Œè±¡å¾ä¸Žå†™å®žå·§å¦™çš„èžä¸ºä¸€ä½“,å‘å±•çš„ç»§æ‰¿äº†ä¼ ç»Ÿå®‹æ˜Žæ—¶æœŸçš„è‰ºæœ¯é£Žæ ¼ã€‚
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Swatch x å²³æ•å›
对别人的一味模仿是对个性的å¦å®šã€‚å¹´ä»…33å²çš„å²³æ•å›æ¥è‡ªä¸å›½åŒ—京,在Swatch笑脸(Wild Laugh)系列ä¸ï¼Œä»–充分地体现了这一原则。笑脸的四个头åƒé¢å¯¹é¢åœ°æŽ’列,分别放在3点ã€6点ã€9点和12点ä½ç½®ï¼Œé¢å”éœ²å‡ºåƒµç¡¬çš„ç¬‘å®¹ã€‚è¡¨å¸¦ä¸Šè£…é¥°æœ‰çº¢è‰²çš„äº”è§’å½¢ã€‚è®¾è®¡è€…é‡‡ç”¨è®½åˆºæ‰‹æ³•ï¼Œæ‰“ç ´æ•´ä½“çš„ç»Ÿä¸€æ€§ã€‚è¿™ä¸ªè‰ºæœ¯è®¾è®¡ä½¿å²³æ•å›è·»èº«ä¸å›½å½“今最é‡è¦çš„先锋派艺术家行列。
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Titoni x å¼ çªå‡¯
对于时间的关注应该是æ¯ä¸ªç‘žå£«åˆ¶è¡¨è€…所熟知的领域,Titoniå“牌亦是如æ¤ã€‚在欣èµè¿‡è‰ºæœ¯å®¶å¼ çªå‡¯çš„一系列熊猫题æçš„åˆä½œä¹‹åŽï¼ŒTitoniå“牌的CEO Daniel Schluep先生立å³å†³å®šäº†ä¸‹ä¸€ä¸ªé™é‡ç‰ˆæ‰‹è¡¨çš„系列è¦å’Œä»–åˆä½œã€‚éšåŽï¼Œä»¥å¼ çªå‡¯çš„熊猫图案å°äºŽè¡¨ç›˜çš„Titoni艺术家é™é‡ç‰ˆæ‰‹è¡¨ç³»åˆ—顺利出炉,这也是该å“牌和一系列国际艺术家åˆä½œè®¾è®¡é™é‡ç‰ˆçš„开端。这次特别的åˆä½œï¼Œä¹Ÿä½“现出瑞士和ä¸å›½ä¸¤å›½ä¹‹é—´çš„å‹å¥½å…³ç³»ã€‚æ®æ‚‰ï¼Œç”±å¼ çªå‡¯å‚与åˆä½œçš„该款腕表,é™é‡å‘å”®250枚。
1967年生于北京。多次应邀å‚åŠ æ„大利,法国,比利时ç‰è‰ºæœ¯å·¥ä½œå®¤çš„艺术创作活动。装置作å“《天林》获æ„大利亚洲当代艺术åŒå¹´å±•é‡‘奖。作å“《禅å›ã€‹èŽ·é¦–å±Šå¸ƒæ‹‰æ ¼åŒå¹´å±•ä¼˜ç§€ä½œå“奖。èŒä¸šè‰ºæœ¯å®¶ï¼ŒçŽ°ç”Ÿæ´»å·¥ä½œåœ¨åŒ—京环é“一线艺术区。
Anina in Lu 12.28
At a Lane Crawford party, Anina is one of the better-known foreign models operating in China. She also runs a major fashion website.
Her jacket is by Beijing-based designer Liu Lu.
Aninaå¯èƒ½æ˜¯æœ€æœ‰å的在ä¸å›½å·¥ä½œçš„外模。她的彩色æœè£…çš„å“牌是LU 12.28。
A Model Revolutionary
Sophia Liu is a Public Relations Assistant now but used to be a model. I met her at “Style Revolution†organized by Grazia.
Lu 12.28
A native Beijing designer, Liu Lu just opened her first shop on Nanluoguxiang. After studying at an elite boarding school in Switzerland, she studied fashion design at Parsons in Manhattan. Her brand, Lu 12.28 has ready-to-wear and haute couture lines. She just adopted a very cute stray puppy that seems to be drawing in the clients. In the photo, the top and skirt are her own designs.
AnyShopStyle Pop-up
AnyShopStyle is one of more distinctive and coherently-curated of the huge crop of online fashion retail start-ups that have been the talk of the town for the last two years. Founded by long-time Beijing fashion writer Alice McInerney among others, the site focused initially just on quirky designs of young Chinese designers but has now opened up to include some foreign talents as well.
This Sunday from four to eight, AnyShopStyle will be hosting a pop-up shop right in Beijing’s Opposite House. Work of designers from the website will be available for the public to touch, feel and try on. Fashion brands include LUVON by Liu Lu, Sara Yun, NEEMIC, Mandarin & General, TwS, funky, animalistic Yang Du, Elysee Yang, Madeleine Thompson, and Candy & Caviar. For Hong Kong designer Erbert Chong this is the exclusive Mainland launch. His designs will only be available at the event and on AnyShopStyle.com the week after. Accessory brands will include Carmen Chan , French Sole , DSata, Everard & Wang and Rfactory. See you there!
China’s Top Fashion Designersä¸å›½æœ€ä½³æœè£…设计师
Jing Daily has this nice round-up of the top rising fashion designers in China. Xander Zhou, Vega Wang, Liu Lu, Zhang Chi and many others are there. The article also makes some interesting distinctions between the styles of Beijing and Shanghai fashion designers.
1. China Chic 1. ä¸å¼æ—¶å°š
In Beijing, the most interesting fashion megatrend was Chinese products and styles. Several related trends occurring concurrently gave the impression that Beijingers wanted to find new ways of adding a Chinese touch to their own unique style of dress. Whether it was retro schooldays, Northeastern fabrics, incorporating traditional elements in modern ensembles, or wearing Chinese designers, the emphasis for young local hipsters and some resident foreigners was incorporating elements of China.
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Sales Impacted by Earthquake
The earthquake period really did alter the mood of the country, with the effects discernible in every aspect of life. Liu Lu says that her store’s business was going well until last month. Customers have clearly adopted austerity measures, since spending on fashion during such a period seems a bit frivolous. Many people she knows are sending the money that would have gone to dresses and shoes to Sichuan, which she stresses is as it should be.
The hot weather should make sales pick up a little though as people start to beef up their summer wardrobes. Griping about the heat and noting that the average fellow does not look so good in a sleeveless shirts and short shorts, I asked her what men should do in the summer since we are forced to cover ourselves more than women. She commented that in Beijing, “wifebeaters” are not as big of a fashion crime as they would be in New York or London. Certainly, in the hutongs of Beijing, it is far from uncommon to see men with their arms and even their stomachs revealed.
On a more fashionable set – or at least this is how they perceived themselves – in Hangzhou a few years back, the sleeveless blazer was actually a major style. It was different from a vest because it tended to be the same length as a traditional blazer or suit coat and often featured the button position, vents, and shoulder pads of a suit coat. It could just as well be a suit with the sleeves hacked off. These were usually made in low-quality polyester and worn sans shirt. They were purchased by those who felt comfortable revealing their chests. Perhaps we should be glad that I can’t locate a photo of this look.
Still, I am earnestly attempting to find comfortable suit alternatives for summer. Can a light waistcoat or vest be a substitute for a suit jacket or blazer in the summer? It could be a backless vest in a very light cotton. Here in Beijing, I have been seeing a lot of these vests on both sexes; they are usually paired with tee shirts. If it were a suit, the bottom piece could be longish shorts. This is probably pushing things too far beyond the bounds of good taste.
I’m not sure how well it goes with the whig, but it’s an interesting whimsical print in a silk chiffon. Left over from a high-end order meant for export, Lu got hold of around 15 meters, which means she was able to make five pieces – truly a limited edition.
Zamani Collection x rechenberg
This installation at the Four Seasons Hotel Beijing is particularly special for me because my father my father, Richard Frye, was a professor of Iranian history and I grew up surrounded by rugs at home. Â When my mother, Eden Naby, and her family immigrated to the United States they sold their land in Iran and used the money to buy rugs, which they shipped their new home. Â Some of these they sold, using the proceeds to purchase their first house in the Philadelphia. Â Others of these rugs are still with my family today.
This heritage made me especially happy to work with Zamani Collection to put together the pop-up that will be at the hotel for the rest of this month and early February.
Erdos Prints
Erdos – usually quite a dowdy sort of label the one sees in those older luxury malls that appeal to an older, less sophisticated demographic and in second-tier cities – Â has really changed its image quite a bit. Â They have been using foreign designers and hypermodel Liu Wen as a brand face, so things are coming along quite a bit. Â The prints for this Spring’s collection were especially compelling as you can see in these images.
Girls of Winter
Photos and Interviews by Suzy
Summer is the season in Beijing that I especially loath, but cold weather has really endured this year. I keep having to turn the heat back on in my hutong. In offices and most high-rises, the heat has been off since mid March. The frigid temperatures indoors mean the tweed sport coats have had ample play recently. Supposedly, there is yet another colf front coming in tomorrow. All of this probably means that it will be an even more sweltering summer than normal. Temperatures above 30 degrees will probably start next Monday.
I kept thinking that these images from over the winter would not really fit given that it was already late in the year. Perhaps this most violent and eternal of winters warrants this reprisal that includes all the photos from the last winter that were not posted here. So below are some profiles and photos from the snowiest, longest winter in all of my years in Beijing. Suzy talked to some of the hip young ladies that give Beijing its character and bohemian charm.
BOF not on Trends
Business of Fashion offers a helpful list of the top 20 figures in Chinese fashion. In addition to a slew of business owners from Hong Kong, several key Mainland media figures like Hong Huang and Angelica Cheung make the list. Even blogger Hong Huang and stylish Lucia Liu are here. Including Melvin Chua also seems to make sense given the huge number of events that are his work.
It was a bit surprising not to see Su Mang, Assistant Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of Bazaar, Bazaar Jewelry and other publications and Assistant Publisher for the whole Trends, the largest fashion publishing group in China. Given that the Trends Group is the main voice deciding how the mainstream population of China digests fashion, Liu Jiang, the Founder and President of the group might also have been included. I understand that BOF might have wanted a selection of figures from manufacturing, retail, media, design, and modeling; there might not have been enough room for Su Mang or Liu Jiang. Still, the list does seem a bit Hong Kong tilted.
News Roundup: Designers, etc.
The era of brand-obsession, in which brand and price tag trump design, seems to be ending fast. As tastes evolve and diversify, Chinese designers and brands are seeing increasing interest in their products at home.