Stylites

So Little Cynicism

Well, what is one supposed to say in this case?  He must represent some sort of triumph for individualism in China.  Here we have the younger generation eagerly showing it is not constrained by any conformist guidelines of fashion or conventionality.  We even have a clear rejection of the old pursuit of status.  What is he trying to achieve if not a sort of upbeat independance?  Why he is so upbeat would be the subject for a longer post.  He must have been born with very few cultural complexes or he must at least have a unique ability to not think about these hangups too often.

China’s miracle suggests a hundred different questions.  One of them is why all the other non-Western countries cannot develop in the same way.  Part of the reason might relate to the absence of young men in those countries who can at once be uninhibited and disciplined.  Chinese never tire of mentioning their five-thousand years.  The amazing thing is that all those years have left them with so little cynicism.  In the Middle East for example, cynicism seems to have come before wealth.  Or maybe wealth came too soon bringing cynicism?  In China, the cynicism is either so well entrenched in people’s pscyches that it becomes barely noticable, or people really are this optimistic.  Brilliant enough growth can produce hope for all that can triumph over all blatant inequalities and deficiencies in a system.

People in the West have eaten too little bitterness to understand, and as always the best answer is probably to not bother attempting to explain things.  I can’t even figure out which shoes I should buy next – forget trying to understand a country.

Drastic Eyewear

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There have been several people from Norway appearing on Stylites and Hanne was bound to appear here at some point as she is always so funky.   The specs may not be the most appropriate for daytime but they do pick up the red in her dress.  Apparently, this eyewear is popular at clubs these days.  I wouldn’t know.  For me the nightlife involves writing and sleeping.  I party during the day.

A Well-Dressed Man

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It’s rare that I encounter men looking halfway decent in suits here.  This is too bad for me because several men’s magazines – including China’s GQ that is supposed to start in 2009 – have asked me to take photos of a more sartorial nature.  The fact is that I am finding this request extremely challenging.  I barely ever see men who look good in anywhere close to a traditional way.  Perhaps I go to the wrong places.  Hanging out in office towers is not my idea of a fun afternoon.  Even when I do go the World Trade Center or other places with a good supply of white collars, I tend to be reminded that suits are just not part of China’s heritage.  Perhaps they are also associated with migrant laborers or doughty employees of state-owned companies.  Young men are not accustomed to seeing professionals looking good in well-fitting formal businesswear, and locals rarely make use of the local tailors the way this Japanese PR executive has done.

Let me just clarify: This suit is not from Senli and Frye.  If it were, you could expect a better fit.

Autumn Comes to Beijing!

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Today was chilly.  Autumn appears to have arrived and with it some of the sophisticated fashions for which the capital is famed.  Boots are always a favorite and nothing seems to match with them better than shorts – especially in classic denim.  What a smart but creative look to make the transition between summer ad fall!

Conceptual Cuts

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Aurelien Lecour, co-creative director of Le Divan, a design studio at Caochangdi, divides Chinese male dressers into three demographics: (1) the typical man who wears an over-sized suit and doesn’t care, (2) young professionals who timidly seek to be fashionable but rely on their female partner for all decisions on purchases, and (3) young teenagers and students who care much about looking different.  Le Divan offers unique and detail-oriented garments for those with a more conceptual attitude toward fashion.

Northeastern Necromancer

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Frankie is a well-known magician from the Northeast.  Here he is outside of the Central Academy of Drama (中央戏剧学院).  He says he doesn’t care at all about fashion; his personality and trade are quite enough to give him a distinctive look.  He can be hired to perform at parties and other events.

Premium Brit-Fan

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Chris is a Beijinger studying advertising in Chengdu; in fact his shirt is a beer advertisement.  His jeans are from Cheap Monday and the sneaker/brogues are from Paul Smith, one of his favorite brands, though the chance that they are real is rather slim.  Like many of the young men on Stylites, his style takes its cues from British rock musicians.

Cute Linen Skirt

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Noticeable from a distance for the drape of her gorgeous linen skirt, this young Qingdao girl is starting her own brand – she designed the skirt – focusing on linen and simple designs that will be available throughout Beijing very soon.

PR Girl, Before the Fall

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Sabrina, not the first from Ogilvy to appear on Stylites, says hers is Beijing’s most stylish PR company, due to the influence of its advertising division.  She purchased her bag to show support for efforts of the Red Cross in Sichuan.  She is believes the Olympics is allowing foreigners to see that China is not as backward and uncool as they might have thought.  PR people are generally fearing the end of the Olympics since this has been a very busy time for them.

Modern Dancer

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Gao Jian grew up in a Hutong nearby Gulou and graduated from the Central Academy of Drama and Theater on Nanluoguxiang.  He is in modern dance and his main theory for dressing is to wear clothing that is loose and comfortable.  I’m not a lover of crocs, but they seem to be appropriate for him.  Despite rumors, the New Zealand team didn’t end up wearing them during the opening ceremony.

The Green and the Black

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Though quite simple, this color combination is not common and has an elegant effect.  Jia Jiajia is a travel agent born in Beijing.  She now lives around Wudaokou though she prefers the Gulou area for shopping.  While acknowledging that the Olympics are a source of pride, she bemoans the loss of much of Beijing’s original character to make way for modern construction projects, mainly malls and high-rises.

“One Color Tone, Please”

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Co-creative director of Le Divan, Australian designer Tony Hua thinks most Beijing men wear oversized clothing and ensembles that don’t match in color or proportion.  He recommends that men choose a style and stick with it rather than trying to mix and match too much.  Most local men would benefit from wearing basic colors like black and white and steering clear of patterns, logos, and advice-giving girlfriends, whose tastes are often highly suspect.   Le Divan’s shop will be opening soon at Soho Shangdu.

Pen Ablaze

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Laura is a freelance journalist from Taiwan who writes for a range of Mainland publications including Modern Weekly and Vogue.  She covers luxury goods, jewelry and other fashion topics.  She loves Beijing, staying here at least three to four months out of the year.  Her favorite is the part of the city within the Second Ring Road.

Emperor of D Hutong

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D is the singer for D and the Hutong Cats.  He was born on Shajin Hutong in the ‘80s but really should have been born in Nashville in the ‘50s.  The style of his band and dress is decidedly rockability as he says himself.  There was already a photo crew following him through the hutongs when I found him.

Black Coffee with Sugar

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I love it when people appear on Stylites more than once -especially lovely young women like Kiki.  Last time it was in winter. Always on the way to a rehearsel or show, Kiki, the lead singer of Milk and Coffee, returns in black, as usual, but her smile and the heart make the color warmer.  Sometimes I feel that black looks a little bit uncomfortable on a hot day though.  But what is the fluffy thing in her hand used for?

Gentleman Director

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These hats are popular in Japan, from whence this young film student, studying directing, hails.  He commented that there is not much good fashion for men in Beijing and everything he wears if bought in Tokyo.  It’s nice to see a little bit of pattern and not the usual black on his slim tie.  The mustache also adds a certain edge to otherwise precious look.

Gia W. from Hang on the Box: Killer Looks

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Having now appeared on the cover of Newsweek and toured in the United States and Japan, Hang on the Box (and a wiki here) front woman Gia W. is known for her agitated singing style.  Considered representatives of the new Chinese youth since the late ‘90s, they claim Marilyn Manson and Billy Corgan as fans.  Gia’s outfit was purchased mainly in Tokyo and consists of Japanese brands.  She said her day job is oil painting.

Classics, Head-to-Toes

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Who did I run into on Nanluoguxiang the other day but Richard Lu, a long-time star of Stylites?  Founder and CEO of Classical Public Relations Co., Ltd., Richard believes men’s style in Beijing is ever improving but needs to gain a more “international” flavor.  He suggests that men here read more fashion magazines and find girlfriends who have taste and are happy to dress their girlfriends.  The foreign men of Shanghai are much more fashionable than those of Beijing, whose style Richard describes as “square.”

Constantine the Creative

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Constantine Comenos teaches music, plays base, and has designed his entire wardrobe, having it produced by Beijing tailors.  He loves the process of sketching his outfits and selecting fabric, best found in Southern cities.  It always perplexes him that more men fail to take advantage of the inexpensive tailoring to exercise their creativity.  The key to staying cool in summer is moving slowly and infrequently, according to Constantine.

Hats at I.T. Gallery

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Comme des Garçons had a photography exhibit at the I.T. Gallery.  There were numerous fashionistas whose photos I could have taken, but my flash was being uncooperative again and there was also much distracting champagne.  Edie Bao is a reporter for Milk Magazine, and she did name herself after the beauty of Warhol’s Factory.  Like all the other galleries at 798, I.T. is in a former factory.  Was Warhol’s Factory ever a real factory or was it just a large studio?

Rather appropriately, Charley Kan, National Creative Director and Managing Director for MEC China, is wearing a Comme des Garçons hat.  He is in charge of a fashion PR company that is going to be especially busy in the run-up to the Olympics.

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